These are very detailed instructions but don’t be intimidated. When you are familiar with the set up, the boat can go from case to water in less than ten minutes

First! - Observe how the boat is packed in the case. Note the placement of the large stainless steel washer and wing nut which holds the tube of the sailing stand to the base. The forward starboard black deck fastening winch and the one just aft of it are not used in the case as they make contact with the tube of the sailing stand. Replace as originally packed.

l. Remove stand parts from carrying case. If sailing, be sure the transmitter and the boat receiver batteries have been charged - overnight the day before sailing.

2. Assemble the two-part stand by screwing large tubular section into stand base. Screw in tight, then back off one turn. This will allow the boat to be swiveled into the wind while on the stand. The stand is now ready. (Do not leave the boat unattended outdoors on the stand. A strong gust of wind can blow it over. If you wish to leave it, lay the boat on its side on the ground).

3. Next slide keel ball into hole at base of stand’s vertical tube - pointed end first. Keel is now ready to receive hull. (Always place the boat on the stand in the same manner - stern first.)

4. Open the hull and remove the stainless steel pushpin from the starboard side of the keel well. Place the hull on the keel. Then re-insert the pushpin through the starboard side of the keel well through the keel and out the other side until firmly seated. Boat and keel are now securely linked.

4-A. Most boats are transported with the sails rolled to prevent wrinkles. The Jib remains attached to the mast and is rolled around the jib boom. The mainsail is removed from the mast (where the two mast halves separate) and rolled and placed inside the tube of the stand.

To attach the sails:

a. Identify the smaller jib (with round boom attached) and the larger mainsail (which uses the aerodynamically shaped boom - not attached).

b. Before joining the two mast sections, start at the break and slide the lower part of the mainsail down the groove in the bottom half of the mast all the way to the bottom - making sure it is in the groove all the way down. Then slide the top of the mainsail up in the top half of the mast, and gently join the two halves of the mast together.

c. Pass the line at the top of the sail over the crane(the horizontal bar) at the top of the mast and down to the cleat. Leave about 3/4 inch clearance between the top of the sail and the crane. Do the same at the bottom of the sail going under the boom attachment eyelet and around to the nearby cleat.

d. Locate the main boom and remove the threaded aluminum vang at the bottom. Slide the boom onto the stainless swiveling pin near the base of the mast. Re-attach the boom vang starting the threaded end with the two knurled locking nuts into the receiver on the mast, after a few turns thread the vang into the receiver on the boom. The vang acts as a turnbuckle so each end is threaded in opposite directions. Be gentle, if it doesn’t go one way, turn it around and try the other. The vang is used to pull down on the boom to flatten the sail shape.

e. Pass the line at the clew (lower rear corner) of the sail through the hole on the end of the boom and fasten to the cleat.

f. Thread both lines at the top of the jib trough the swivel near the top of the mast. Stand the mast up vertically on the floor and adjust the lines so the jib boom is flat on the floor just in front of the mast. Cleat temporarily and adjust again before sailing when the mast is on the boat. This cleat and the backstay tensioner adjust the rake of the mast. On maiden voyages the mast should be vertical.

5. Be sure the black rubber antenna is snugly fitted to the radio transmitter and turn it on. Look inside the boat and be sure everything is clear of the servo actuator arms and lines. Turn on the radio receiver in the boat by pulling up on the black “winch” switch on the deck. (Pushing down turns the switch off). Pull the two left-hand levers on the transmitter in toward you - this position will pull the sails in when the lines are attached. You should see the arms move.

On the transmitter, the left lever is the mainsail, the right the jib. The trim tabs are just above the sail levers to the left of the antenna on top of the radio case. Pull these both up. This will be full close haul (inward) trim for the sails. Center the trim tab below the steering lever which is on the right hand side of the transmitter case. [The boat antenna may be left inside the boat for pond sailing. In a harbor or at sea thread it out the small hole in the port side of the transom and run it up the backstay and tape or tie to the tensioner bowsie].

6. Locate the rudder and slide the shaft through the hole on the underside of the stern and into the hull. Inside the hull, place the control horn of the steering linkage on the rudder, then tighten the set screw on the horn with the “L” shaped hex wrench provided. The set screw should automatically settle into the flat spot on the rudder shaft.

Adjust the rudder so it is completely straight, turning the nylon clevises on either end of the stainless steel rudder steering rod connecting the rudder servo to the rudder post. A very fine adjustment can be achieved. Once the rudder is adjusted it should not be necessary to do it again even if it is removed and re-installed.

Your boat is now assembled and ready for the mast and sails

7. Slide the two mast sections together, if not already done during sail mounting, and secure the sail using cleats at top and base of mast.

8. With the mast and sail assembly leaning against the side of the boat and stand, first hook up the jib tack (the hook at the end of jib boom) to the eye on forward deck. Then hook up backstay to the stern backstay line. Squeezing the small stainless clip will reveal the ends. Slide the line over an end and pull down to attach.

9. Pick up mast and slide its notched base over the mast step track on deck, making sure it fits securely into one of the middle notches on the track. Now the mast is standing and is supported fore and aft but not sideways. Standing on the side of the boat, gently let the mast lean against your shoulder as you hook the shrouds to the deck eyelets. Attach the shroud which is attached higher on the mast to the forward eyelet and the lower shroud to the aft eyelet. Now your mast is secure. Adjust shrouds and backstay to the desired tension - not tight just snug.

10. Close cockpit hatch after leading the main sheet (the line coming from the right - starboard- sail servo actuator) through the black fairlead in the middle of the cockpit and attach mainsheet and jib sheet to their respective boom cleats (after leading the sheets through the eye on each boom). Finally, make sure the cockpit hatch is snugly fastened by gently tightening the 6 black winch screws. It is easiest to do this while pushing down on the deck.

A3 IS NOW READY TO SAIL.

Proceed as follows:

1. Check the controls to make sure the rudder and sails are responding to your signals and in the right direction. Note: the sails will not go out unless the wind pushes them out.

2. Do not handle the boat through the cut-out in the after portion of the deck. This is designed to be light-weight and is not strong enough to be used for lifting. Holding the bottom or sides of the boat slide A3 forward off its stand and gently launch. Happy Sailing!

Batteries:

NOTE: Rechargeable batteries self discharge over time. Full capacity is reached when charged overnight and unplugged shortly before sailing. Batteries charged a week before sailing may last only half as long. Sailing time depends on activity. The average time for one set of batteries is about three hours. Use a second set or a quick charger for continuous sailing. Four regular AA batteries may also be used in a holder available from us or any electronics store. They will last a full day.

The transmitter may also be operated on 5 AA (not the 6 rechargeable) batteries. AA batteries are 1.5 Volts and rechargeable batteries are 1.2 Volts. A wooden dowel wrapped in aluminum foil may be used as a blank battery in any standard six AA battery holder. See “TIPS” below for further details.

To Recharge the transmitter and receiver batteries:

l. Plug in the battery charger (unit is part of radio kit). The batteries can be charged while the transmitter and boat are in the case.

2. Be sure transmitter is turned off. Connect the charger’s transmitter line to the transmitter case.

3. Be sure the boat receiver is off by pushing down on the black winch switch. Remove the deck. (The switch is the only winch remaining when the deck is removed.)

Connect the battery charger’s receiver line to the charge receptacle in the boat. The charging plug is a small black receptacle on right side of the watertight radio box. It has a cover which must be swiveled to the side. Look at the plug and its mate inside the receptacle and join them so the patterns match. If both transmitter and receiver red lights on the charger come on everything is working.

If the mainsail does not come all the way in or the boat becomes sluggish or erratic, head for home right away and charge or change the batteries. A full charge will provide about three hours of sailing - more or less depending on conditions and activity of use.

4. Charging from a complete discharge to full capacity takes about twenty hours. Thereafter charge overnight. See the Ace Radio instructions for details.

Extra batteries are available from Challenger Model Yachts and at some hobby shops. The batteries can be changed in less than a minute. In addition both transmitter and receiver batteries have quick charge capabilities. A 15 minute quick charger is also available from Challenger Model Yachts.

To change the batteries on the boat, open the watertight radio box unplug the used battery and plug in the fresh one. Be sure both sides of the plug meet correctly - red to red and black to black.

To change the batteries on the transmitter squeeze the sides of the case gently and remove the back cover. Peel the used battery away from its Velcro attachment and insert the fresh battery the plug is the same as on the boat.

If you wish to double the battery capacity on the boat a second boat battery pack may be connected to the first in parallel (both red wires joined together and connected to the red side of the plug and both black together to the black side of the plug). Most hobby shops have the three pin “Dean’s” connectors and wire to accomplish this. Do not use a transmitter battery. It is two receiver batteries, but they are connected in series which doubles the voltage. This battery will damage the receiver.

 top