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Sailing Tips

When sailing, use the rudder trim tab to ease steering and to help hold a course. When the rudder is properly adjusted the boat can be slightly steered using just the trim.

Challenger Model Yachts Sail shapes and rigging have a lot to do with speed and performance. Experiment with different configurations for different conditions.

Be sure your jib boom is pointed at the forward shroud turnbuckle when close hauled. This “slot” between the trailing edge of the jib and the leading edge of the mainsail enables good upwind performance. Experiment with the jib trim to determine the optimum position. The boat can be seen to point up, or fall off, the wind slightly as the jib is trimmed inward or outward of the shroud.

The position of the mast fore and aft, the rake of the mast, the tension of the boom vang and the downhaul are primary adjustments. When sailing downwind the main boom will not be ninety degrees to the boat. The boom should only be out forty-five to fifty degrees out, but the upper portion of the sail will be out ninety degrees.

The “throw” of the rudder can also be adjusted by attaching the nylon clevis to the rudder steering arm closer (more throw) or farther (less throw) from the rudder. The factory team prefers maximum throw for racing as it allows for very tight turns at the start. However, in this setting a very light hand is needed for sailing - especially downwind. Maximum throw is also necessary for heavy air sailing. An inexpensive dual rate switch is available to electronically change the throw, but a skilled hand will accomplish the same thing.

WD-40, LPS-1, or a similar oil spray will keep the turnbuckles and metal parts looking good and working well.

A little grease from time to time on the rudder shaft and aluminum boom vang threads will maintain the smooth movement. The factory uses white grease available in most hardware stores.

TROUBLE

If the controls move in the wrong directions see radio instructions on servo reversing. It is easy and just takes a minute but is a slightly different procedure on different radios.

The Challenger factory maintains a supply of all spare parts and can also repaint and repair boats. Most rigging cable and lines can be obtained from fishing tackle shops. The factory uses ninety pound test, (forty kilo) - black plastic coated stainless steel wire and eighty pound (thirty-six kilo)strength Dacron line.

Radio gear and batteries are usually available from better hobby shops. “Universal RC” connectors are used on the factory batteries but any plugs that have two connectors can be used as long as a matching pair is soldered onto the connection.

The turnbuckles, blocks and winches only come from the factory. In an emergency a 4/40 machine screw can replace a winch. The deck can also be taped down with electrical tape. .

Should you need any assistance please call (719) 447-8897, fax your question to (561) 828-2278 or email us. at wr3@wrr3.com